Salut! I'm in Chagny. This is the heart of Burgundy and I feel Supergut. My Augenentzuendung is gone, the weather has improved, the scenery is magnificent, you can drink the wine and the art is beautiful. It must be rather different!
The eye patch, of course I must still bear. But the idea of Docteur Rousse, exposing the eye to light, was really great. If I'm in church or as yesterday at the Hotel Dieu in Beaune, I remove the lid, clear. For the fantastic world court Altar of Rogier van der Weyden, they want to see even with both eyes.
But from the beginning. When I'm gone further on Tuesday in Dole, I do not even gone so well. I had slept poorly and dreamed wild. Well, because I've only come pretty late in the cottage cheese and was in the evening in Saint-Jean-de-Losne. There, a bridge over the Saone and to get to Burgundy. So, the Franche-Comté I really love won, despite the bad Weather and muddy paths. Because people are so warm. And a very, very high praise I need to get rid of the Association Franc-Comtois. As it supports the pilgrims, that's really professional. The trail is great, the hotels are great. There are so many people who make insane amount of effort to make it to the pilgrims going well. Sorry, there are still too few here. Folks, I can say is, let hey, but this crowded road in Spain and comes in the Franche-Comté. Here you can find what really makes a pilgrimage: rest, time for reflection, helpfulness, kindness.
In Burgundy, the support is not organized as well, since you have to do everything myself as a pilgrim again. In most cases, sleep I Pfarrhaeusern in, with me is the letter of recommendation from my own community very helpful. We have even set up bilingual in German and French.
the first night I had at Citeaux in Burgundy, where the Cistercian Order was founded. Because I was in a private home, I'm just went to Compline. It was again very nice, but not as in the Abbaye d'Acey. In Citeaux simply lack the Romanesque period. The monastery is in fact during the French Revolution had been demolished. But a little over 100 years the monks have come back. They have built a new church, which is simple and does not have the harmony of the medieval buildings. This has also the conversion of ten years, nothing changed. While there are still historical Abteigebaeude, but the old church just missing. In the Abbaye d'Acey everything fitted together. That was unique.
But I learned from Robert, my host, a lot. Robert is a widower and takes pilgrims to live with him, so he is not lonely. His research about the Cistercians and has told me that most people come here because of Bernard de Clairvaux. Namely the know all. But Bernard has been here only three years and has also founded the Cistercian not, as many believe. This has already 15 years earlier Robert de Molesme made, after my host has been named by his parents. Clear that Robert highly of his namesake holds. Robert de Molesme and his brothers first lived simply and quietly in Citeaux. But then Bernard has entered with a lot of relatives in the abbey and had at one time in charge. He has totally revamped the Order and founded many new monasteries. Citeaux became a center for 500 monasteries across Europe. Even here in Hessen which have been built. I have said that the older monks has gotten pretty because it was so peaceful now over. Robert, therefore, my host said that the judge is very difficult today. Bernard has torn his interest in everything for himself and he has brought new life into the Order? But probably both. Anyway, he was incredibly successful. experiences in the Abbey one that does not like because you have a conversation with the monks do not.
And then the nice way about Nuit-Saint-Georges to Beaune. The Cote-d'Or, the absolute wine region. I believe we grow some of the most expensive wines in the world. Not for nothing called Gold Coast. A bottle costs as much as the skirt, which I bought in Dole: 37 €. Oh man, I live like four days. But this is certainly an experience, so opening a bottle. Well, you have to be too many. But the pastor in Beaune had brought a bottle from the cellar. He said that will not do that I do all the Cote-d'Or walk along and none of it abkriege. On the way one looks really any famous vineyards. And beautiful wineries that are located among the vineyards. Fantastically to live here. On two castles I am directly passed on Gilly-les-Citeaux and Clos de Vougeot. Beautiful! The other goods I unfortunately could only see out of the back, because the path leads above the vineyards on the edge of the woods. But the view from up there on the landscape is unique.
In Beaune Yesterday I visited the Hotel Dieu. This is an old hospital complex of the 15th Century that is still completely preserved Sun Do you remember what I have written about Guebweiler in the preparation of the altar in Gruenewald Isenheim? could see that the patients from their beds to the altar? Yes, and in Beaune is an extent. There is a large ward, the longer one erected on the walls, the beds so that patients could look to the chapel. And there stood the great altar of Judgement by Rogier van der Weyden. Again such a huge Fluegelaltar. Today it stands at the other end of the ward in a side room, where he can see pretty well from near. And for the details you have installed a large magnifying glass in front. The automatically moves up and down and you can even closer look at many of the details. Not bad!
The two altars are indeed for the same purpose has been painted, namely to comfort the sick and to accompany her death. Gruenewald to beat the sick, that Jesus on the Cross and St. Anthony as many pain as they themselves had. Rogier has painted his Last Judgement very different than much fine and very much gold background. He was concerned about that here takes place a counter-reality, a very different world than ours. Rogier has painted the beauty of heaven and shown the patient what to expect after death. Since tumbling while many more people come to the hell than in heaven, but the most space on the screen take on the many saints who sit around and ask him about Jesus, but to be gracious. I asked myself which of the two altars, the patient more comforted. I can imagine that Rogier has succeeded better with his altar. For Gruenewald has applied for my taste a little too thick. But perhaps people have seen this earlier quite different. In any case, both altars are on their way, great.
Bisou
vôtre Julie
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